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BMW’s S55 motor is one of the best motors a BMW Enthusiast can mod. Debuting in 2014 after replacing the S65, the S55 received a lot of backlash. Swapping from an NA V8 to a forced induction straight 6 upset a lot of people, and rightfully so, the S65 was an icon. The infighting of the BMW crowd was a spectacle to see considering the popularity of the N54 and N55 regardless of maintenance problems or turbo problems.
The early models of S55 came stock with 425 horsepower and as they were refined, later models made up to 495 horsepower. The S55 came in some of BMW’s more iconic cars like the F80 M3, F82 M4, and later the F87 M2 competition. Over time these cars have started to become more attainable and accessible for people to mod, specifically the F80 M3. And with more accessibility and better aftermarket support, the S55 has been essentially turned into a rocket ship. You can do a couple simple things to get 600+ horsepower or if you commit like a real man, the S55 can ever so gently kiss 900hp.
We’ve had our fair share of F8X’s at Vivid Racing over the years, so we decided to compile a list of the top 5 mods to give your S55 more power.
[H2] Upgrading the Crank Hub
I don’t want to beat around the bush so we’ll talk about the elephant in the room when it comes to the S55. To add more power, the engine actually has to run, and the S55’s fatal flaw is the stock crank hub. At this point, the S55 is old enough to where I feel like the crank hub has already been replaced on pretty much every engine out there whether that’s preemptive or because it offed itself.
Regardless, there’s always options to upgrade it, and you can go with a couple of different brands, but our choices are RK Autowerks, MMX, and a controversial brand for BMW owners, Vargas.
Make sure you’re getting a billet crank hub when doing this, anything less will expose you to the same fate as the OEM hub.
[H2] BMW S55 Tuning Upgrades
[IMG: Weistic W.1 Tune]
Now that that’s out of the way, let’s talk about actual power addition. We’ll start with the stereotypical BMW thing, and that is a tune and downpipes, kinda a 2 for 1. Is this a basic thing to do? Sure, but the reason it’s so “basic” is because it actually works, and it works incredibly well.
Both of these items can be a touchy subject, with the epa and carb cracking down, it can limit what is available for you to buy, unless you go looking in other places.
Let’s start with tunes. Because of carb and EPA crackdowns, there really is only 1 company that has broken through with a carb legal tune, and that is Weistec. Weistec’s W.1 tune improves your throttle response, and optimizes your air fuel ration as well as boost. The tune alone will give you 546 horsepower and 675 foot pounds of torque which is an increase of around 120 horsepower and around 270 foot pounds of torque. I think we can all agree that for being carb compliant, those are some incredible power gains.
[H2] BMW S55 Downpipes
[IMG: Evolution Racewerks S55 downpipe]
Now let’s add in the downpipes. Again being carb and EPA compliant, there are still plenty of options you can get that will open up exhaust flow. There’s a couple very good brands that we have loved pairing up with S55’s in the past. Evolution Racewerks has some solid options for high-flow cats that can add up to 25 horsepower with the downpipes alone. Now pair that up with a tune, and you’re cooking.
You could also go with a brand like Active Autowerke that has a ton of aftermarket options for the S55. With the pairing of a tune and solid downpipes, you’re staring right down the barrel of 600 horsepower. We’ve done this plenty of times here at Vivid, and the results have always been consistent and effective.
The rest of the mods we’ll talk about can be paired with downpipes and a tune, or they can just be standalone. The great thing about the S55 is that it doesn’t take a lot to get some additional horsepower. Doing basically any power mod will yield you real results, not like a marginal 1-2 horsepower increase.
[H2] BMW S55 Exhaust Systems
[IMG: Valvetronic Exhaust System]
Next on the list, I want to talk about exhaust systems. Obviously pairing up a system with downpipes and a tune, downpipes specifically, will give you the best results when wanting to increase horsepower. But if you’re wanting to only install an exhaust system after the cats, there are hundreds of brands to choose from. Some of our favorites are:
VRperformance
Borla
Active Autowerkes
Armytrix
Fabspeed
Valvetronic Designs
Sure, exhaust systems are for power, but opening up the sound of the S55, letting that sweet, sweet straight-six sing. Freeing up those turbos is why you buy a BMW. But, regardless of the sound, you can see some actual powergains with an exhaust system. There’s always been a debate online of if exhaust systems alone can add horsepower, but with the S55, you will absolutely add more power. There are dyno graphs to prove it, look it up!
On top of just straight power addition, an upgraded exhaust will also come in lighter than stock, which can create a peppier, more agile ride. There are some systems like Valvetronic Designs that will take as much as 50 pounds off your car. Even a mildly experienced driver will notice that difference. Weight-saving plus opening up exhaust flow can typically give you an extra 15-30 horsepower and 25-35 foot pounds of torque.

[H2] Intake Upgrade
[IMG: VRSF Front-facing intake]
The next mod is very basic but very necessary. It’s one of the first things you should do when adding any other power mods to your car. You have to upgrade the intakes.
It’s all an ecosystem, your car works in harmony with itself, so you can free up exhaust flow and do whatever else, but if you’re not letting enough air into your engine to accommodate for the other additions, you either won’t see really any gains, or you could throw a code because your AFR is wonky. Some of our favorite brands, and not just because they look sick or make cool induction noises, are AMS, Dinan, and VRSF.
The biggest thing to look for when upgrading is the size of the intake tubes. On the stock intakes, the intake tubes will taper down below 3 inches in diameter at the turbo inlet.
When upgrading, a 3 and a half inch diameter is pretty standard to allow for better airflow.
Two other things to consider when upgrading is the air filter box and the material that the intake kit is made out of. Adding a filter box will add an extra barrier between the dirt and your filter, as well as heat coming off of the engine. The same thing goes for the material the kit is built with. The stock plastic sucks and absorbs heat from everywhere, making the air entering the turbo hotter than it needs to be. But by upgrading to titanium or aluminum, or even carbon, you can be nice to your motor and give it cooler air.
Some intake kits brands claim to add an additional 20 horsepower, but you probably won’t get 20 horsepower without additional mods. You’ll get cool induction growls and maybe a little extra kick in horsepower, but to get anywhere close to 20 additional horsepower, you’ll have to pair the intake with other mods.
[H2] BMW S55 Turbos
[IMG: Pure Turbo Stage 2 Turbo]
The best mod that you can go to your S55, no matter what car it’s in, is upgrading your turbos. Turbo upgrades are obviously getting out of the OEM+ or stage 1 build, for example, Pure Turbo’s Stage 2 Turbo Kit can handle up to 900 horsepower. Social media and the internet has desensitized us to how much horsepower that actually is. 900 horsepower is a certified race car!
Regardless, upgrading your turbo is the biggest power mod you can do both power-wise and parts-wise. You really don’t have to touch this unless you are trying to push 700+ horsepower out of the S55, but again, we’re talking about power mods.
With a turbo upgrade you’ll get things like a billet compressor wheel, stronger housing, better bearing, machined inlets, the quality of material and construction is just better, and that’s why it can handle more than stock turbos. Sometimes, even just the sizing of the turbos is bigger depending on the brand. If you’re going for gold, a turbo upgrade will get you right.
When you push more horsepower out of the S55, you’ll have to upgrade surrounding pieces, like heat exchangers, oil coolers, stuff like that to make sure your valves don’t become shrapnel. We won’t get too in the weeds on those because those are mostly supporting mods for power gains, rather than directly increasing horsepower.
You can find out more about these and other mods by visiting our website. Contact our team with any questions you have about these mods, and make sure to follow us on social media and take a look at our blog for more news and updates.

Tags: BMWBMW G80 M3 exhaustS55S55 Exhaust

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This is one of the most searched automotive questions on the internet. What is offset?
There are plenty of tutorials, articles, videos and more on what this question means. It seems like a pretty straight forward question with a pretty straight forward answer, right? Wrong!
There are plenty of intricacies when it comes to the sizing of your car’s wheels, the 4 main ones being diameter, width, offset and backspacing. And unfortunately, wheel manufacturers can do some funky things that might not always yield you the result you want when buying wheels. That’s why it’s important to get as specific as possible with every single measurement you can before you install a new set of wheels. Check out the video for a visual demonstration, otherwise read our summary below.
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[H2] What is Offset?
Offset is the measurement, in millimeters, between the center line of your wheel and where the mounting surface of the wheel is. If your wheel has a 0 millimeter offset, that means the mounting surface of your wheel matches the exact center of your wheel’s barrel.
[IMG: Wheel offset diagram]
There are two terms that will be used to describe your wheel offset. Positive offset and negative offset. Here’s where people get confused, so we’ll make it as clear as possible for you to remember.
A positive offset means the mounting surface of your wheel is moved to the street facing part of your wheel barrel. This in turn will push the rest of your wheel’s barrel into your car. A common thing to look out for when running a positive offset is clearance issues. Sometimes people will get too aggressive with a positive offset, and the back of the barrel will push into your suspension parts, brakelines, coilovers, and cause a ton of problems.
Most if not all modern cars, especially front wheel drive cars, run a slightly positive offset. This allows for the wheels to be tucked into the fender wells more to optimize suspension geometry. If you are running a safe and conservative positive offset, you should be fine with clearance issues unless you have upgraded suspension components that have changed the amount of space you have in the wheel wells.
Now, for negative offset, the mounting surface will move towards the car, pushing the front of the barrel out towards the street. It’s basically unheard of for cars to come from the factory with a negative offset, but if you know a car that does, let us know! Negative offset wheels are usually going to be for performance-related builds, VIP builds, or show car builds.
[IMG: Hyundai Genesis in pink]
A negative offset will help with clearance issues on your car or truck if you have upgraded suspension components. This will allow for full clearance so you don’t have any rubbing issues that can lead to damage on the wheel, tire, or anything inside the wheel well. A negative offset can also give you more room to run fatter tires if you are tracking your car, or if you have an offroad build and need your tire to cover more surface area on the ground. A wider stance from negative offset wheels can also give you greater stability for cornering or other aggressive (but safe) driving.
When it comes to VIP builds or show car builds, a lot of people will run a negative offset because of the aesthetics of it. Throwing some crazy poke on a slammed car is a surefire way to get people to react to your car, now whether that reaction is good or bad… Wellllll
So that’s offset. Now let’s talk about backspacing.
[H2] What is Backspacing?
Backspacing is incredibly similar to offset. Backspacing used to be the go-to method. It was easier to measure with older cars because there were fewer suspension components to bump into with the back of the wheel.
Offset is measured in millimeters where backspacing is measured in inches. Instead of positive and negative numbers, there is just 1 measurement. To measure backspacing you’ll measure from the back of the mounting surface, to the back of the barrel. An easy way to do this is by getting something flat, and laying it on the back of your wheel, and dropping your measuring tape right in there to the back of the mounting surface. And the point that they meet is the backspacing.
[IMG: Hyundai Genesis in pink]
Most modern wheels will only give you the offset measurement, but if you can have both the offset and back spacing measurement, it will help you make the most informed choice possible when purchasing new wheels.
[H2] How to Measure Wheel Width & Diameter
Let’s hit the last two measurements that you want when getting a set of new wheels. Diameter and width are the easiest measurements to get, but they will impact what your offset and back spacing is. Now you might think you just grab your tape measure and go top to bottom, but you would unfortunately be incorrect.
You’re going to want to do a little guesswork when measuring the diameter of the wheel. The diameter of the wheel is technically the top of the barrel to the bottom of the barrel. It will be easier to measure if you’re looking at the side of the wheel. Take your tape measure, try and line it up.
This is also kinda the same deal for measuring the width. Instead of just going furthest point to furthest point. You’ll want to measure bead seat to bead seat. On some wheels there will be a bead knurling that looks like a bunch of little grooves, and that will make finding the bead seat easier for you.
The width of a wheel has an incredibly important relationship to the offset of the wheel. Say you have a stock 18×10 wheel with a +20 millimeter offset, 18-inch diameter, and 10-inch width.
You might look at your car and go, “Huh? That flush fitment is ugly. I want to get a tucked or poked fitment with my wheels, and you decide to look for bigger wheels than stock. You find a dope set of 19×11 wheels with a +20mm offset. Same offset right?” WRONG!
Offset is relative to the wheels. A +20 millimeter offset on a wheel with a width of 11 inches will push the barrel another half inch back into your wheel wells as opposed to a +20 millimeter offset on a wheel with a width of 10 inches.
Everything with aftermarket wheels is a game of balance. You change one number, the other numbers have to change. Your job is to figure out if the wheel will fit how you want and if it will fit if you’ve done any extra modifications to your car.
It’s a tough job, and that’s why our friends over at Fitment have built an insane gallery where people have uploaded anything and everything under the sun. You can find your car’s exact make and model and look at all the different sizes people have run on their car. They cover everything from the brand of wheel, make of wheel, diameter, width, backspacing, offset, what other mods are installed on the car, spacers, EVERYTHING. It is the most comprehensive aftermarket wheel database on the internet.
Check out the Fitment Industries Gallery
We know there’s a lot of content out there covering this exact topic, so we hope we taught you something new. And if you are a beginner in the car scene, we are happy to have you!
If you are looking for a new set of wheels for your car and don’t know where to start, head to our website, at vividracing.com to find what you’re looking for. If you’re unsure where to start, we have a ton of performance specialists that will walk you through the process, and get situated with the right fitment for your needs. You can call us from 9-5 during the week at 1-480-966-3040. We’ll be ready for you.

Tags: backspacingnegative offsetoffsetpositive offset

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[H2] Wheel Spacers are a cost effective and easy way to get your fitment set up just how you like it. Some people love spacers, some people run them out of necessity, and some people think they are the literal devil and your entire axle will tear out of your car and cause a 30 car pile up around you. And I am here to tell you today that spacers are good,  spacers can even be great, but that’s not without some caveats. So you should read this blog before buying wheel spacers for your car.

So right off the bat I will tell you that spacers are like a bandaid in most cases. I’m gunna go out on a limb and say like 90% of people that use spacers probably effed up their fitment somewhere along the way. And honestly, I get it, sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
Here’s what we’ll do, let’s walk through a couple different things so you can get all the facts about spacers. I’ll talk about if they’re safe or not (cause that is probably people’s number one concern), are they even worth it?What kind should you buy?, and other little quirky things about spacers.

[H3] So first, are they safe?
[H2] Depends.

In general the answer is yes. A conservative 1 millimeter to 5ish millimeter spacer should be fine to run especially if installed correctly. However, this is not something you want to cheap out on. Amazon spacers may look tempting. I mean $20 bucks to get your fitment dialed sounds great until that chinesium literally splits in half cause you took too hard of a right turn.
You need to buy real spacers from real reputable brands. Some of those include
[H1] H&R
[H1] BORA
[H1] APR
[H1] RENNLINE
[H1] NOVITEC
Those doomsday never spacers people do have a point in their fear of the wheel shooting off of your car because the spacer will break. Obviously they’re a little over the top, but if you are buying those cheap spacers, especially if you get some fat like 17mm ones that arent hubcentric, you need to be careful. Along with the fear of breaking, a cheap material spacer also has the potential to friction weld itself to the assembly or warp badly and start popping your lug of the wheel, while also destroying the wheel.  The warping can also cause problems and if there’s an improper balance. Your tires will get messed up, your wheel rotation will get messed up and next thing you know, you’re 3 lanes over side swiping the median all because you thought Aliexpress was the smart move. I’m sorry to keep sounding like one of those people that think spacers are evil, but I cannot stress enough how important quality spacers are for your safety. You’ll also need to watch out for the quality of the studs. Those things snapping off while driving can absolutely be detrimental to… your life.All of that can be mitigated though, by just getting the right spacers. I cannot stress it enough, do not cheap out with spacers.
Real spacers, quality spacers will, the spacers that you should be buying will usually use some sort of high grade T6061 aluminum, with heavy duty studs. And speaking of studs, another very common issue when it comes to the safety or lack of safety surrounding spacers is when the studs don’t get torqued enough. You can buy sets of spacers either with or without studs attached to the unit. If you are buying a spacer that has the studs separate, you should almost overdo it when it comes to torquing those bad boys down. You’re going to want to get around 6 and a half to 8 rotations out of them to make sure they are safe. If you’re having trouble with that, you might want to consider getting spacers that come with lug studs as a part of the spacer. The worst thing that can happen is all the vibration from garbage roads loosens up those studs and then you see your new wheel 100 feet in front of you while cruising down the highway.
Something to also consider when buying spacers with a separate lug studs is low long the studs are. If you get a 5mm spacer, and the lug stud are 6 or 7 millimeters you’re going to have them poking out and potentially pressing in the the back of your wheel. That will result in a brand new gap and your wheels not being seated properly which again, can make them go POP, or at the minimum, you’ll have imbalance problems and that will just lead to more issues.
Now it’s rare with smaller spacers for that to happen, but if you start getting in to fatter spacers like 25 milimeters or more, you might have to grind down those studs so your squated truck doesnt fall apart. I’m looking at you florida and texas people.
Another thing that you need to get when looking for spacers is a hub centric ring. That will make it easier for you to get the wheel on, plus it will keep the wheel in place and cancel out vibration. And if your lug studs are too big, your wheel wont be able to line up the the hubcentric ring, and again. problemThe final safety thing i’ll talk about is the sizing. The bigger spacer you get, the more you need to worry about load bearing problems. The worst thing you can do is run like 3 25 millimeters spacers and have those things bend like a banana. Obviously that’s only what insane people would do, but regardless, you should weight your options if running a massive spacer is worth it, compared to just getting the correct fitment for your wheels.

So after all that doom and gloom, lets lighten it up a little.

[H3] Are wheel spacers worth it?
[H2] YES!
Like i mentioned earlier, 90% of spacer usage is because of fitment issues. This can be anything from getting used wheels on facebook marketplace, or you just underestimate the offset of the wheels you just bought, or you got a set of multi piece wheels and everything about it was finicky. Spacers are a great way to fix your fitment to make sure you get exactly what you want. I dont know of anyone that would drop a couple thousand dollars on wheels and be like “Oh no, my offset is off by 1mm, let me go buy another set.” if you have money like that, then be my guest.  And who knows maybe you want to switch up your fitment style. Maybe your car has a tucked fitment and one day you’re laying in bed, scrolling on our instagram feed and you see a car with unreal poke and you think to yourself “I NEED TO BE THAT”. Spacers will be perfect for you to switch it up and switch back. Another cool thing you can use spacers for is an adapter. Lets say you have a typical 5×114.3 and you find the perfect set of wheels that you love and you need, but they only make them in a 5×112. Or a 4 lug. Wheel spacers can basically be a fix all for that. I would probably recommend just getting the right lug pattern, but hey, this is a free country, you do what you want. I’m just a guy. Spacers are not a requirement for your car. They are definitely more in the want category, or the ‘oops i goofed” category. But if you are wanting spacers, we have a ton of options and a ton of brands. I mentioned a couple earlier like H&R, APR, and Bora and those will all be amazing quality like i talked about. If you want to pick up a set, there’s links all over this page. Shopping for spacers and getting the right thing can be tough, so if you need someone to talk to and walk you through it, we have a ton of performance specialists that know a long more about cars than I do.

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Tags: spacerswheel spacers

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Vivid Racing
Vorsteiner
VR Tuned
VRTuned
Wheels
wholesale
WRX